Cotton vs lycra leggings: which fabric is better for daily wear?

"Cotton or lycra?" is the first question most of us ask when buying leggings. The honest answer: you rarely want either one on its own. Here is what each fabric does, why a cotton-lycra blend is the everyday choice in Indian weather, and how to tell good leggings from ones that will bag at the knees in a month.

The short version: pure cotton breathes but sags. Pure lycra-type fabric stretches but feels hot and shiny. Cotton lycra, mostly cotton with a little spandex, gives you both: it breathes like cotton and springs back like lycra. That is why it is the standard for daily-wear leggings in India.

What "cotton" and "lycra" actually mean

• Cotton is a natural fibre. It is soft, absorbs sweat and lets air through. On its own it has almost no stretch, and it does not recover once stretched.
• Lycra is a brand name for spandex (also called elastane). It is a synthetic fibre that can stretch to several times its length and snap back. Fabric labelled "lycra leggings" is usually nylon or polyester with spandex in it.
• Cotton lycra is cotton knitted with a small amount of spandex. Cotton gives the feel; spandex gives the stretch and recovery.

Cotton vs lycra vs cotton lycra: side by side

Why cotton lycra suits Indian weather

For most of the year it is hot, humid or both. A legging you wear for ten hours under a kurti needs to breathe. Synthetic "lycra" leggings look sleek but trap heat and sweat, which is uncomfortable by afternoon and can cause rashes on the inner thighs.

Pure cotton breathes, but it stretches out at the knees and seat as you sit and move, and never fully recovers. By evening the leggings look loose and wrinkled.

A cotton-lycra blend avoids both problems. That is why all So Glamy leggings use it: our ankle-length leggings, shimmer leggings and pocket leggings are all soft, stretchable cotton lycra.

When pure lycra leggings make sense

Synthetic, high-spandex leggings do have a place:

• Running and high-intensity workouts, where you want compression and quick drying
• Swimming and water sports
• Cold weather layering

For yoga, walking, housework and everyday wear, cotton lycra is the more comfortable choice.

How to check leggings before you buy

1. Stretch test. Pull the fabric gently and let go. Good cotton lycra snaps straight back. If it stays stretched, it will bag.
2. See-through test. Stretch it over your hand in good light. If you can see your skin clearly, it will be sheer when you bend.
3. Waistband. A wide, covered elastic waistband sits flat and does not roll or dig in. Our leggings use a mid-waist band for this reason.
4. Seams. Look for flat, even stitching, especially at the crotch. That is where cheap leggings tear first.
5. Label. Look for "cotton lycra", "cotton spandex" or "cotton elastane". Mostly cotton with a smaller share of spandex is the everyday sweet spot.

Which leggings for which outfit

• Under kurtis, every day: ankle-length leggings in neutral colours like black, beige, navy and white
• Festive and party wear: shimmer leggings, with a subtle sheen that lifts a plain kurti
• Errands, travel and walks: leggings with pockets, so your phone and keys stay with you
• Hot afternoons at home: printed capris in breathable cotton lycra

More on choosing a style in Ankle-length, shimmer or pockets: choosing the right leggings.

Getting the size right

Leggings are sized by waist and hips. Measure both and check the leggings chart in our size guide. If you are between two sizes, size up for a relaxed fit or down for a firmer hold. Exchanges are free if the first pair does not fit.

Caring for cotton lycra leggings

Wash in cold water and turn them inside out. Avoid bleach and hot dryers, because heat breaks down the spandex, which is what makes leggings lose their stretch. Dry them in the shade so colours stay bright. More tips in how to wash innerwear so it actually lasts.